The Fiji Diaries – #1

(Originally a series of emails that were written to provide an update of sorts to family whilst in Fiji, with only the odd sprinkling of editing here and there)

7 July 2023 – AM

Developing countries are wild. Fiji is no exception. Suva is a really odd mix of tin houses, brutalist concrete monstrosities and the building of shiny new towers, with a tiny speckle of colonial architecture, clinging here and there. Being a white person affords one some liberties, if you take on a doe-eyed expression and look pleased when people say ‘Bula!’ to you. I suppose I’m just perceived as a suitable mark to thief, merchant and beggar alike. 

I took a taxi (which, by the way are the way to travel – I’ll touch upon travel a little more in a bit) down to the municipal markets yesterday morning and immediately regretted taking my backpack with me – nothing screams tourist more than a backpack. Nevertheless I persisted, and there is something rewarding in wandering through rows of vegetable sellers (produce is exceptionally cheap here) which I still reckon comes from the early morning starts at Flemington markets in my formative years. Fruit markets in Fiji smell like fruit markets everywhere. Fish markets, on the other hand, have a very different smell in Suva – they pack more of a punch. And if the fish aren’t exceptionally fresh, laid on a slab with running water over them they reside in large chest freezers for chopping up later, all the while sellers eye you off as wander down the little side alley next to Nabukalou Creek.

Ok, so public transport. Taxis are everywhere (and I literally mean everywhere), and they’re cheap as – FJD$4 to get down to the city. Seatbelts in the back seat are rare and an added bonus, but not a necessity. Neither is vehicle roadworthiness to Australian standards, or strict following of road rules, but everyone is pretty cruisy and we haven’t died yet. Oh and a key fact of Suva life we’ve been told on multiple occasions – take a taxi at night. Buses are just as plentiful during the day, and a lot are what can only be described as designed for the tropical climate – no windows (except tarps to pull down over these spaces during inclement weather). Perfect. I spent some time down in the bus terminal yesterday (it’s right next to the produce markets) and it’s quite the sight. Will have to go down and take more photos over the next few days.

Update – just popped away for a bit as there was a march (complete with brass band at the vanguard) for a drug free Suva – never a dull moment here.

Carpe diem.